In 1976 Patek Philippe shocked the world with the launch of the first Nautilus model. During this time luxury sport watches had to be by default ultra thin and made from solid gold. No one dreamt a premier Swiss watch manufacturer to come out with a ship’s porthole inspired stainless steel watch capable of withstanding depth inversions of 120 meters.
Patek Philippe Advertising
The Nautilus Momentum
Since 1976 the Nautilus has remained an icon of design and a classic. With books and auctions attributed to its existence the Nautilus has remained practically unchanged. Every Nautilus is beautiful but some examples are more special than others.
Nautilus 3700 Advertising
Patek Philippe Advertising
Some Are More Special Than Others
The Patek 3800 with diamond hour markers is a rare watch in and of itself. Not many were manufactured and out of those made not many are being offered at this moment.
Patek Philippe Nautilus 3800P
Within the rarity of the watch is another component that makes it even rarer and that is its platinum casing. The metal is not readily found on Patek sport models and those who want one sometimes have to personally request them directly from the manufacture in Geneva. Now, if that was not rare enough add the original box and papers to the mix. Here we have a perfect hat trick of a watch. Patek Philippe 3800 in platinum with its original box and papers.
Patek Philippe Nautilus 3800P
Collectability
Not many were manufactured and out of those made not many are being offered at this moment. Within the rarity of the watch is another component that makes it even rarer and that is its platinum casing. The metal is not readily found on Patek sport models and those who want one sometimes have to personally request them directly from the manufacture in Geneva.
Rolex Submariner Date – The World’s First Elegant Diving Watch
Early Years
In 1967, 14 years after Basel’s release of the first Submariner Rolex introduced one of its finest creations the Submariner Date Ref. 1680. With this reference Rolex showed the world they could make equally as marvelous every day watches as they did tool watches.
Vintage Rolex Advertising
The 1680 was the first Submariner to feature a date function, which did not come in handy when diving but it made the world of a difference when worn on a casual setting. Rolex’s underlying message with the Submariner was: “now you can keep your Rolex on forever. Take it diving but also take it to the office”. Soon after its 1967 release the 1680 became the most wearable Rolex. The rapid success of the Submariner prompted Rolex to shock the world two years later with the release of the Submariner Date in 18K yellow gold. This new permutation of Submariner showed the market that Rolex had surpassed its standing as a tool watch manufacturer and become a dynamic watchmaker.
Rolex Advertising (Circa 1970)
Dial Variations
The 1680 from 1969 saw two dial variations, which will forever remain iconic. Rolex experimented with black dials and gold lettering as well as blue and gold lettering. Little did Rolex know that their blue dials would soon begin to change colors due to a pigmentation issue brought by the factory made dials. Some blue dials turned into a rich purple, others became brown, while others turned into a hue of navy blue.
Rolex Submariner-Date ref 1680/8″ Purple”
The first strand of discolored dials occurred with 1680’s manufactured around 1969. Submariners belonging to serials in the 2.8 million range turned into a strong purple color almost looking aubergine. Finding dials with this type of discoloration is very rare, as the occurrence was quickly reversed.
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Rolex Submariner-Date Ref 1680/8 “blue Navy”
The second strand of discolored dials occurred with Submariners ranging from the 3 million to 5 million serials. The discoloration here was not as dramatic as the latter ones but they were equally as fascinating. These dials ranged from intense navy blue hues to others not showing strong blue colorations. Naturally navy blue dials fetch a premium whereas the others do not.
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Rolex Submariner-Date Ref 1680/8 “tropical brown”
The third and last strand of discolored dials occurred with the last serial numbers belonging to the 1680, those in the 5 million range. In an effort to stabilize dial colorings Rolex decided to produce their last batch of dials using materials reserved for their new lines of upcoming sport models. The manufacture assumed that their newer dials were going to retain their factory made coloring. This notion of belief was quickly contradicted as those dials began to transform into a brownish color, the now revered Tropical dials. These dials will remain the most fascinating strand of dials ever produced by Rolex.
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Collectability
The 1680 in yellow gold’s production span for nearly 10 years, ending on 1978 when Rolex introduced a newer model fitted with a sapphire crystal. Nonetheless the 1680 will remain an icon for eternity, as it was Rolex’s foray into the world of sporty/elegant watches. The key in collecting the special dials belonging to the 1680 era is to find examples with even coloring throughout the entire dial. Meaning purple dials are more sought after when the entire area is covered by the same tone of color. That being said it is important to understand that discolored Rolex dials are unique to their watch. Meaning that no two discolored dials will ever be the same. Collectors find this happening fascinating, as they appreciate the rarity of their Rolex 1680. After trial and error Rolex has only been able to master the coloring applied to dials fitted on sport models.
FROM ORIGINAL SUBMARINER BOOKLET:
The Submariner is a handsome watch for business and social wear, yet remains, first and foremost, a diver’s watch.
The automatic movement with perpetual rotor has obtained the official title of Swiss Chronometer. It is housed in a seamless ouster case 18ct gold or surgical stainless steel. the trip look crown, a triple safety device, is protected against all accident by a seamless shoulder cut in the solid metal. the date change promptly at midnight, and the bracelet ,made from the same metal as the case ,has a flip look fastening with an extension so that it can be worn over a light diving suit.
the dial and the rotating bezel of the gold submariner are available in various colours all very elegant And while the bezel is useful for timing say a telephone conversation its vital role is to indicate the decompression stages
