Rolex Submariner Date – The World’s First Elegant Diving Watch

Early Years

In 1967, 14 years after Basel’s release of the first Submariner Rolex introduced one of its finest creations the Submariner Date Ref. 1680. With this reference Rolex showed the world they could make equally as marvelous every day watches as they did tool watches.

 

The 1680 was the first Submariner to feature a date function, which did not come in handy when diving but it made the world of a difference when worn on a casual setting. Rolex’s underlying message with the Submariner was: “now you can keep your Rolex on forever. Take it diving but also take it to the office”. Soon after its 1967 release the 1680 became the most wearable Rolex. The rapid success of the Submariner prompted Rolex to shock the world two years later with the release of the Submariner Date in 18K yellow gold. This new permutation of Submariner showed the market that Rolex had surpassed its standing as a tool watch manufacturer and become a dynamic watchmaker.

 

Dial Variations

The 1680 from 1969 saw two dial variations, which will forever remain iconic. Rolex experimented with black dials and gold lettering as well as blue and gold lettering. Little did Rolex know that their blue dials would soon begin to change colors due to a pigmentation issue brought by the factory made dials. Some blue dials turned into a rich purple, others became brown, while others turned into a hue of navy blue.

Rolex Submariner-Date  ref 1680/8″ Purple”

The first strand of discolored dials occurred with 1680’s manufactured around 1969. Submariners belonging to serials in the 2.8 million range turned into a strong purple color almost looking aubergine. Finding dials with this type of discoloration is very rare, as the occurrence was quickly reversed.

Rolex Submariner-Date Ref 1680/8 “blue Navy”

The second strand of discolored dials occurred with Submariners ranging from the 3 million to 5 million serials. The discoloration here was not as dramatic as the latter ones but they were equally as fascinating. These dials ranged from intense navy blue hues to others not showing strong blue colorations. Naturally navy blue dials fetch a premium whereas the others do not.

 

Rolex Submariner-Date Ref 1680/8 “tropical brown”

The third and last strand of discolored dials occurred with the last serial numbers belonging to the 1680, those in the 5 million range. In an effort to stabilize dial colorings Rolex decided to produce their last batch of dials using materials reserved for their new lines of upcoming sport models. The manufacture assumed that their newer dials were going to retain their factory made coloring. This notion of belief was quickly contradicted as those dials began to transform into a brownish color, the now revered Tropical dials. These dials will remain the most fascinating strand of dials ever produced by Rolex.

 

Collectability

The 1680 in yellow gold’s production span for nearly 10 years, ending on 1978 when Rolex introduced a newer model fitted with a sapphire crystal. Nonetheless the 1680 will remain an icon for eternity, as it was Rolex’s foray into the world of sporty/elegant watches. The key in collecting the special dials belonging to the 1680 era is to find examples with even coloring throughout the entire dial. Meaning purple dials are more sought after when the entire area is covered by the same tone of color. That being said it is important to understand that discolored Rolex dials are unique to their watch. Meaning that no two discolored dials will ever be the same. Collectors find this happening fascinating, as they appreciate the rarity of their Rolex 1680. After trial and error Rolex has only been able to master the coloring applied to dials fitted on sport models.

 

 

FROM ORIGINAL SUBMARINER BOOKLET:

The Submariner is a handsome watch for business and social wear, yet remains, first and foremost, a diver’s watch.

The automatic movement with perpetual rotor has obtained the official title of Swiss Chronometer. It is housed in a seamless ouster case 18ct gold or surgical stainless steel. the trip look crown, a triple safety device, is protected against all accident by a seamless shoulder cut in the solid metal. the date change promptly at midnight, and the bracelet ,made from the same metal as the case ,has a flip look fastening with an extension so that it can be worn over a light diving suit.

the dial and the rotating bezel of the gold submariner are available in various colours all very elegant And while the bezel is useful for timing say a telephone conversation its vital role is to indicate the decompression stages

 

ISTRUCTION FOR USE REVOLVING BEZEL

 

 

See our big selection of Vintage Submariner from Rolex